Sunday, February 28, 2010
the most spiritual act in surfing to me is the wipe out. The first time I had an honest to god real wipe out i realized in the first seconds in the water, the best thing to do was to stop struggling, go completely limp and accept that I was going to be under water for a little while until the wave brought me back up. The wave was significantly more powerful than I was, so I just had o trust it the same thing happend in a much more prolonged way the time I intentionally paddled into a riptide. I learned exactly what I had been told by the stranger I just met on the cliff was true. I just had to trust the ocean. Right now in my life I am craving a wipe out. The feeling of life or death so real that the only choice is to surrender and accept. its funny how something so scary can bring absolute peace.