Sunday, February 28, 2010

Wipe out

the most spiritual act in surfing to me is the wipe out. The first time I had an honest to god real wipe out i realized in the first seconds in the water, the best thing to do was to stop struggling, go completely limp and accept that I was going to be under water for a little while until the wave brought me back up. The wave was significantly more powerful than I was, so I just had o trust it the same thing happend in a much more prolonged way the time I intentionally paddled into a riptide. I learned exactly what I had been told by the stranger I just met on the cliff was true. I just had to trust the ocean. Right now in my life I am craving a wipe out. The feeling of life or death so real that the only choice is to surrender and accept. its funny how something so scary can bring absolute peace.

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Enough time for a Proper Surf

I made it home in time for a proper surf, I'm very happy but I twisted my knee. I was going to go to Riptide tonight but wimped out. I went all the way to Judah to find an ATM that could read my card, and then got lazy about going to riptide. I better go next Wednesday. Is it just me or is it not a proper surf unless you get injured and held down at least once?

Monday, February 15, 2010

Suffering from Lack of Stoke

I was stoked to have the day off, then annoyed that my dog wanted attention, because I had intended to drive down the coast in search of some sun and mellow surf. I made it to the Jetty, then continued on, because it just didn't inspire me. Usually, I'm not picky at all, I'll surf in anything, but I just couldn't get my stoke up enough to put my wetsuit on and paddle out, even after all the work of loading the car and driving all the way down there. The conditions and crowds (Spongers, screaming kids and rental boards as far as the eye could see) and temperature weren't helping, but I'm disappointed in myself and feel guilty for wasting the drive. Still, I got out of the city for a few hours, which I desperately needed.

Coke Rewards Points Litter UPDATE!

I'm up to 141 points on
none of these points are from Coke products that I purchased myself, they are entirely from caps found as litter, so far, all but one cap was found on Ocean Beach.

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Finally got a hood

Incredibly, I've been surfing in the frigid waters of northern California for 3 years without a hood. After having to be out of the water for the longest consecutive period since I got the car due to bronchitis, followed by a smashed finger, followed by another cold, I finally gave in and bought a hood. Having to stop by the surf shop on the way home cut shorter an already short session, but the important thing is that I got in the water for the first time since the Sunday before last. It did keep me much warmer, although I also broke down and wore my booties. well, I'm sleepy, so I better go.

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

Plastic Shit

About a month ago, winter storms washed tons of plastic trash up onto Ocean Beach where I live, I've started a video blog of all the shit I've found on the beach: